Above: a composite image shows what's under the top of the Zorki-S.
This page will show you how to take the cap off the Zorki-S. I spent two days of my life measuring the Zorki-S with a caliper and transfering the measurements to an AutoCAD drawing, all for the sake of clarity, so if you mail to tell me that the speed dial has no numbers, I will kill you. Instructions for use: just follow the steps. The parts that are going to be removed are coloured red. We're not going to remove a lot of parts, but lay everything down in some sort of order so you don't have to remember which zorklet goes where. Some kind of tub is handy to not lose everything on the floor.
Included for aesthetic value: a picture of the zero situation. Remember, I will end your life if you make a remark about the blank speed dial.
The first step is to remove the winding knob. We do this by unscrewing it against the direction of its arrow.
Next to go is the frame counter. Just lift it off the spindle; it isn't fixed.
The frame counter rests on a circular bearing. This part also isn't fixed to the body.
Unscrew the two darkish screws that just came exposed.
Of the screws embedded in the flash show, unscrew only the lower right one. The other two only fix a small padding plate to the flash shoe that you can leave in place.
Next, set the shutter speed dial (shown here without speeds) to 1/100s for reference, then screw it off by loosening the two small screws in the side. Be careful with those since they're vital yet small, brittle and easy to lose.
Set the flash sync selector to zero for reference, then screw it off.
On both sides, unscrew the screw and the two windows. All of them loosen in counterclockwise direction.
You've removed all the tethers, so you can take the cap off.
You can remove this loose piece if you want.
The bare carcass. It's possible to venture further, but since I don't consider myself competent and knowledgeable enough, I'll have to leave you here. Remember the guide on your way out!